Learning Apsara Dance in Cambodia

Starting with a spark of curiosity, my journey into the world of Cambodian Classical dance began during a visit to Siem Reap.

The delicate depictions of Apsara dancers on the ancient walls of Angkor temples caught my eye, stirring a desire to dive deeper. Witnessing vibrant dance shows at tourist spots only fueled my enthusiasm to learn. With a background in Middle Eastern dances, I’m always eager to embrace new challenges. Engaging with a country’s traditional dances offers a unique lens through which to experience its culture—not just visually but physically, adding layers of appreciation and understanding, as well as a unique personal transformation.

My quest for knowledge led me to search for a local dance teacher. Today, this art form is widespread across Cambodia, with numerous foundations and schools dedicated to teaching children, often free of charge. These organizations primarily focus on two goals: firstly, to preserve Cambodian culture, which has endured significant hardships, nearly losing its dance heritage during the devastating Khmer Rouge regime. Secondly, it aims to provide children with a skill set that can lead to employment opportunities. While the majority of Cambodians are engaged in agriculture, tourism plays an increasingly vital role in the economy. Involvement in the tourist entertainment industry can provide an additional source of income for many people.

*Photo by Pedro Bonatto during special photoshoot at* *Apsara Dance Theatre*.

With that said, teaching dance to foreigners isn't common in Cambodia. When I initially searched Google for dance schools or teachers in Siem Reap, I came up empty-handed. Information about local foundations and art schools wasn't readily available either, at least in English language. It was only later in my learning process when I discovered about them.

So, I had to come up with a different strategy to find a dance teacher. After every dance show I attended in Siem Reap, I approached troupe members and inquired if any of them would be willing to teach me. That's how I eventually connected with my teacher. Following a captivating performance at the Apsara Dance Theatre, I learned that their mentor Ah Net was open to giving classes.

*Photo by Pedro Bonatto during special photoshoot at* *Apsara Dance Theatre. My teacher Ah Net adjusting my pose.*

That’s how I began my journey into learning basics of Cambodian classical dance. The process was thrilling, yet at times, it felt overwhelming and even frustrating. While the language barrier posed a challenge on its own, it was mastering the intricate movements that proved to be the greatest obstacle.

Ah Net immediately decided to teach me a routine: the traditional Apsara dance. Typically, it takes up to 3 months to master this sequence thoroughly, even for someone with prior training in classical Cambodian dance. I knew I wasn't quite prepared for such an undertaking, but I understood why Ah Net chose this iconic dance- the epitome of Cambodian classical dance. Clearly, her intention and my expectation wasn't to turn me into a professional Khmer dancer overnight. Instead, it was about providing me with a chance to immerse myself in the beauty and complexity of the Cambodian dance tradition, and the Apsara routine was a perfect choice from this point of view.

Classes took place at Ah Net's home. Instead of playing music, she sang the traditional Apsara song, or sometimes we danced in silence. My biggest challenge was grasping the sequence and its intricate details. There was no step-by-step breakdown of the movements. Ah Net simply demonstrated the next section, expecting me to replicate it immediately. That's when my brain felt like it was about to explode. The sheer volume of details to memorize all at once was overwhelming.

Navigating the Apsara dance presented a unique challenge for me, despite my usual proficiency in memorizing dance movements. It felt like I was breaking every familiar pattern in my body:

The posture demanded bent knees but with continuously lifted toes - quite an unusual posture for your balance.
I had to maintain a deeply curved lower back to accentuate the line of my hips. This position highly contrasted with my belly dance training, where we actively strive to avoid sway back position for injury prevention.
The positioning of the elbows was another adjustment. They were either extended (or I would even say, overextended) or bent close to the upper body, reflecting the traditional female manner of Cambodian dance. This contrasted sharply with my usual practice as a belly dance teacher, where I often remind students to maintain some space between their arms and bodies. In Apsara dance, however, this tendency didn't work in my favor, and I was often corrected to keep my arms closer to the body line.
Lastly, my facial expression had to remain calm with just a hint of a smile (but not too smily), embodying the serene mood of an Apsara goddess descended from the temple walls.

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Adapting to these nuances required a significant shift in my muscle memory and mindset, but it was an enriching journey into the heart of Cambodian dance tradition.

I was trying my best to replicate each pose as accurately as possible, but it was far more challenging than anticipated. Firstly, there were countless details to remember, from the precise extension of fingers to the continuous lift of toes, and everything in between. Secondly, each position demanded tremendous physical exertion. Some poses make me shake after just 5-10 seconds, and I was unable to sustain them for longer durations. And naturally, my hands, wrists, and fingers quickly grew fatigued. Professional Cambodian dancers begin their training from a young age, aiming to develop the required level of flexibility and strength throughout their bodies, especially in their hands and arms. You can see all nuances of the intricate dance from the video below, which is a short clip of Apsara dance performed by a professional troup at Apsara Dance Theatre in Siem Reap.

Taking Apsara dance classes and later wearing the exquisite costume was undoubtedly the highlight of my trip to Cambodia. I extend my heartfelt gratitude to my teacher, Ah Net, and her assistant, Leak, for graciously sharing the experience of Cambodian dance with me, as well as for their invaluable assistance during the photoshoot and provision of the costume. Additionally, I am deeply appreciative of the Apsara Dance Theatre, where I initially found my teacher and later had the opportunity to capture these stunning photos to complement this article.

There is so much more I’d like to share about my visit to Siem Reap and exploration of Cambodian dance! Stay tuned for more articles related to this topic. And for those of you who are seeking to experience the beauty of Cambodian dance and music, I highly recommend to visit Apsara Dance Theatre in Siem Reap with their show and dinning experience. You will have a beautiful evening enjoying exquisite Khmer cuisine, and being enchanted with a series of Cambodian folklore and classical dances to live music. You can find more details about Apsara Dance Theatre on their website, as well as Facebook and Instagram pages.

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Author and model: Iana Komarnytska

Photographer: Pedro Bonatto

Location: Apsara Dance Theatre (Siem Reap/Cambodia)